![]() There's also a guide that was put together by "Daumemo" for setting it up on an Orange Pi Zero. There are instructions on the OctoPrint website ( ) for setting it up from scratch in Linux. ![]() USB Data Cable (type needed depends on your printer)Įthernet Cable (makes setting up the Pi easy, but you can remove it for wireless)īracket and Screws: (just 4 small screws should be enough) I'm happy enough with the results that I figured I'd share it with the community.īreadboard Wires: (type needed depends on your printer) One thing led to another and I managed to get OctoPrint working on the OrangePi Zero, made some brackets to discretely attach the boards to the printers, and figured out how to power them off the printers' internal power. While surfing for solutions on how I could use the printers if they were remote, I came across OctoPrint. It would actually be better to relocate the printers outside of the office, but that would mean untethering them from my computer and copying files to SD cards every time I wanted to print was not a viable option. Unfortunately, having these two printers tied to my desktop was becoming an issue, because I want to keep my office cool, but the printers perform better when it's uncomfortably warm, and enclosures didn't seem like the right option. I also have a couple of 3d printers: a Prusa Mk3S as my primary, and an Ender 3 Pro that I got off Amazon a few months ago to have as a cheap secondary. I think that because of that I couldn't get the latest RetrOrangePi build working on it, and just getting the composite working with a cheap backup display was a real pain in the ass, so I thought about re-tasking the boards for something else. The original "Zero" only has composite out, not HDMI like the "Zero Plus 2". ![]() It also has a tiny footprint, built-in USB hub, etc. It has the same chip as the Banana Pi Zero M2 (AllWinner H2+), which is much more powerful than a Raspberry Pi Zero. I had picked up a half dozen OrangePi Zero boards on AliExpress with the intention of using them for some cheap, portable retro consoles in combination with some composite backup displays. ![]() For about $20, you can upgrade your 3d printer with wifi, ethernet, a web-based management interface, and still run it all off the single power cable that your printer came with, and without soldering anything. ![]()
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